Wine Review: Domaine du Pelican Arbois Chardonnay 2021

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For today’s tasting Wine-Searcher’s Master of Wine David Allen continues his exploration of some of the wines produced at the fabulous Domaine du Pelican in Arbois, today he tries their 2021 Chardonnay in an attempt to see why Guillaume d’Angerville became so enamoured of the wines from this region.

Domaine du Pélican is one of the leading wine producers in the Arbois appellation of the Jura wine region in eastern France, biodynamically farming 15 hectares of vineyards. The estate’s name refers to the pelican shown on the civic crest of Arbois.

The estate is owned by Guillaume d’Angerville of the famed Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay. After blind tasting a Jura Chardonnay by Stéphane Tissot at Le Taillevent restaurant in Paris, he began looking with his estate manager Francois Duvivier (a partner in Pélican) for land to buy in the Jura.

In 2012 they purchased five hectares of biodynamic vines and a house at Montigny-lès-Arsures, near Arbois town. The sale went through just before the harvest, and the wines were made by the new team without much experience of the terroirs.

The new team were also unused to with the Savagnin, Trousseau and Poulsard varieties made alongside the familiar Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. However the quality of the wines was such that they felt happy to launch the Domaine du Pélican label and not wait for a full vintage under the d’Angerville ownership.

Grand Curoulet (a five hectare plot) was then added almost immediately. It needed some replanting but on the plus side had hardly ever been treated with chemicals. In 2014 the estate acquired 4.2ha of vines from Jacques Puffeney, the “Pope of Arbois” as he moved into semi-retirement.

D’Angerville has sometimes said that they make the Pélican wines in a Burgundian way. By this he largely meant the avoidance of oxidation, by topping up barrels and so on. The Jura Savagnin wines made this way typically feature the term Ouillé (topped up) on the label.

To learn more about this wine, its price and where it can be purchased, follow this link to the Wine-Searcher website: https://www.wine-searcher.com/find/dom+du+pelican+chard+arbois+jura+france/2021

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